One of the most popular restaurants in Evanston, Illinois, is Dave's Italian Kitchen, and in all of my years at Northwestern University, I could not understand why. Certainly I was "spoiled" by growing up in Rochester (Irondequoit, no less!) so I know what good Italian cooking can mean.

Anyway, the first time I tried them out was based on this overwhelming recommendation, and I made the terrible mistake of bringing my grandparents. I was utterly mortified by the coarse bread, the from-box pasta, and the bitter marinara. Now, I am confident that people of all cultures can prepare the food of other peoples' cultures, but, considering the low quality of the food, I couldn't help but notice the all-Asian cooking and house staff. (Granted, pasta was originally Asian, but, come on!)

Well, I had to eat there once or twice more when I was outnumbered in social groups, but the food never got better. I'm happy to report that the place is being torn down to make way for a movie theater or something. There's a big public outcry over it (that's what's so galling - people love this restaurant! Why? It's not even cheap there!) but I breath a sigh of relief and remember the good old days in Irondequoit - the bread from D'Vincenzo's, the canoli from Palermo's, and any of Rochester's wonderful Italian restaurants.

2006 Anonymous Contribution:
Regarding the review for Dave's Italian Kitchen in Evanston, Illinois: the reviewer could not be more wrong about Dave's. It's been an Evanston institution for more than 30 years because it serves excellent Italian food at very reasonable prices. Every pasta they serve is homemade--not a single one from a box. The marinara, also homemade, is some of the best I've ever eaten. And the place is thriving in its new home in downtown Evanston, after the old building it was in was torn down. The reviewer is as misinformed as he is misanthropic. I'm glad he's left Evanston.