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The
Refrigerator Editor
writes:
The twenty minute drive down Lake Avenue from the city to the
lake is always interesting. Actually, you never leave the city
since Lake Avenue is the city all the way. Mr. Dominic's is "At
The Lake" as the sign out front says. The sign also says,
"The Home of Pasta In The Cup" but I have no idea what
that means. Inside you'll see Mad magazine style signs like "Beware
of Pickpockets and Loose Women" and "No Service Will
Be Provided To Anyone On A Horse. There is a sign over the bar
that reads, "The Problem with eating Italian food is three
days later you're hungary again". There is also a poster
of the Sopranos in the dining where someone has put Mr. Dominic's
head on one of the bodies. The little tvs with the sound off are
a nice touch in the dining room. Mr. Dominic himself might seat
you. You can't miss him. His profile is on on the menu. My favorite
visual though, is the poster in the Men's
Room . We have eaten here many times and our favorite
dishes are are Manicotti Elizabeth (with mushrooms and extra cheese)
and Chicken Fred.
Martin
Edic writes:
A while ago I wrote a glowing review of this legendary Charlotte
restaurant. For some reason things at Dominic's went downhill,
possibly due to a change in the kitchen. The portions were still
ample and the sauces above average but a certain zing was missing.
I'm happy to say that recently the food has returned to its 'potentially
best Sicilian Italian in town', a comment that would undoubtedly
create a lot of discussion amongst my Sicilian-American friends.
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I'm
not going to review a lot of dishes. Any of the pasta dishes are
good. My current fav is something called Veal Josephine. It's
a combination plate with two veal scallopine done 'French' style
which means sauteed in an egg batter with a lemony sauce. They're
tender and the sauce isn't overly acidic, a problem with this
dish elsewhere. The other side of the plate is what's makes his
Josephine's special: three large shrimp done scampi style. In
Dominic's this means butterflied with the shell on and sauteed
in garlic butter with dried red pepper. Leaving the shells on
means they're messy to eat but it makes a big difference in the
flavor and texture of the shrimp. We've gotten so used to peeled,
farm raised shrimp with a watered down flavor that the shell-on
ones are a revelation. They're almost lobster-like in texture
and succulence. In combination with the veal, the side of pasta
and the excellent salad (get the italian/crumbly bleu dressing),
the plate is a bargain at $14.95. Go on a Wednesday and you can
add a dozen steamed clams to your entree for $3 additional. The
scampi are available over Pasta as an entree and you'll get enough
to feed several.
A
warning about Dominic's: reservations mean little and you'll have
to wait nearly every night for at least a half hour. Weekends
are jammed. Have a drink in the bar in front and talk to the people
next to you - you'll hear real Rochester stories from unexpected
viewpoints.
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